|Ford Focus HID Conversion|
|Light(s) don't work||One or all of the bulbs may be burnt out.||
|Burnt fuse (s)||Replace the fuse(s)|
|Verify all wiring|
|Ballast may be defective||
Time to order a replacement ballast.
Part number: 2M5Z-13C170-AA
|Loose connectors||Re-check all connections to ensure a good fit.|
|Loose butt connectors/wiring splices||Re-check all wiring connections.|
|HID units do not fit in the Focus equipped with the 2.3L PZEV engine.||
The 2.3L PZEV engine required re-routing of the AC hoses, and the air filter.
|Cut the AC hose mounts and re-route the hoses.|
|The stock assembly has three (3) top mounting points. The Mach HIDs have only 2 top points. The HID unit has no tab like that on the stockers. It only has a cross/X,shaped piece that is part of the clear lense cover. It wraps around the bottom of the black housing, but it has no tab or hole to run a bolt through. It does not appear to be broken or snapped off, or have any jagged edges
The Mach HIDs have only three (3) mounting holes:
The stock light uses four (4) mounting holes. The additional hole mounts the light to the grille area.
|Mount the HID unit using the three (3) mounting holes. Keep the extra bolts for a rainy day.|
Headlight flicker going over bumps
Headlight beam starts to wobble
Little ability to adjust lights vertically
A white plastic knob with a ball-ended brass screw has come out of a black plastic slot, located within the light housing.
From bumpmaster on FocalJet:
"Remove the white plastic knob in order to attach the ball of the brass
screw into the black plastic slide. Simply
turn the whole white plastic part (should have 3 prongs to grip onto) clockwise,
sorta like removing a normal light bulb.
it pops out you can put the screw with the ball on the end of it back into the
put the white knob back in and turn it counterclockwise until it snaps into
From GapBoyPCS on FocalJet and myFordFocus.com:
"You may not be able to get that white plastic part to turn either clockwise or counter-clockwise. I managed to simply use the knob on the screw and turn it so the brass ball is far away from the plastic slot. Then, you gradually turn the brass ball in...and gently force the slot onto the ball. It may take a while...but it beats forcing the heck outta that white knob."
|The light pattern has a 45° cutoff, making the left side of the car less visible.||
The cutoff is a trademark of most reputable projector and HID units.
The Mach Edition/SVT HIDs are built for North America. North American drivers sit on the left side of the vehicle. More light is given to the right hand side as traffic (should) keeps to the right, and you reduce blinding on-coming drivers who also sit on the left side of the vehicle.
The pattern is due to a mechanical shield that blocks the light at the low-beam setting. This shield is moved once you select high-beam and have made the jumper harness modification in the turnstalk control.
If you desire, you can remove the shield.
|Broken headlight mounting tabs||Poor packaging from the parts supplier, and/or poor shipping procedures.||
Order the following part from your Ford dealer:
YS4Z-13A004-GA (List is $55 USD - 10/19/06)
|Lights do not come on when vehicle is started (for Canadian and models equipped with Daytime Running Lights (DRLs).||
Depending on how you installed your lights, DRLs may or not work.
If you did not use the Ford Racing kit, the normal DRL system would engage. The HID units require a lot of startup voltage to "ignite" the xenon gas. The DRL may be interfering with the operation of the bixenon units.
If you used the Ford Racing kit, then the DRL's come on via the outboard amber lights. They are NOT designed to trigger the high beam lights, unlike other auto manufacturers.
options if you did not use the Ford Racing kit:
For those who purchased the Ford Racing kit, wire your DRL's into the outboard amber light. Follow the instructions outlined in the kit.